daveswelshrarebits.com

My friend Tom has just returned from his motorcycle trip and he generously agreed to keep a diary of his experience which is posted below:

This motorcycle trip was with my friend Bob, the best m/c rider I have traveled with. Our objective was to ride the entire length of the Blue Ridge Parkway, and continue thru the Shenandoah National Park, on the Skyline Drive. The parkway begins in Cherokee, NC, and travels 469 miles north thru Virginia. The Skyline Drive begins near Waynesboro, VA, and goes thru the Shenandoah National Park, another 110 miles, ending in Front Royal, VA. This scenic road closely follows the highest ridges of the Appalachian mountain range, and connects the Great Smoky Mountains NP and the Shenandoah NP.

 The highest altitudes are in excess of 6,000ft, with averages between 3,000 and 4,000ft. It was constructed during the economic depression beginning in 1935, creating jobs for many unemployed, linking the two national parks, and resulting in an ongoing economic boost to the region. The designers and construction crews took great care in minimizing scaring of the mountain slopes and attempted to “blend” the road as much as possible with its natural surroundings. This year marks the 75th anniversary of this national treasure. It has been called, “Americas Favorite Drive“. 

 Friday, June 11th: Sunny skies: we are loaded up on our motorcycles and leave Bob’s cabin in Blue Ridge, GA. We travel thru Andrews, Murphy, Bryson City, arriving at Cherokee, NC in time for lunch at Peter’s Pancakes. The entrance to the parkway is just outside Cherokee, and just before entering the Great Smoky Mountains NP. Cherokee, as well as the first 20 or so miles of the PKY., pass thru the Cherokee Indian Reservation. This is the Eastern Band of Cherokee.

 (As a point of history, in 1838, after the US government had broken all past treaties, the military was ordered to round up as many Indians remaining as possible. Their removal from their ancestral home, to a new “reservation” in Oklahoma, was to enable the government to develop the areas of Tennessee, Georgia, Carolinas, and Alabama, for the advancing “white man”. This forced removal, known as “The Trail of Tears“, left many of the 15,000 in the tribe dead from starvation and the winter elements. Some of the Cherokee’s were able to flee the military round up into the mountains. Later on, they were given a small portion of land to exist, which remains today as their reservation.) 

 We begin our journey north climbing steadily. The warm air begins to cool. We travel thru many tunnels in this section of the parkway. This is quite rugged with many steep cliffs. Skies turn grey with the higher elevation, and we are caught in the rain. We stop and don our rain suits, and continue to the highest point on the parkway, Richland Balsam, 6,047ft. In late afternoon, we arrive at Wagon Road Gap, and take route 276 west 15 miles to Cruso, NC, and the Blue Ridge Motorcycle Camp. It is still raining, so we take a “sleeping cabin” for the night. As the evening goes on, more motorcyclists arrive, and the skies begin to clear.

 After relaxing a bit and having dinner, we walk the campground to visit other motorcyclists. It is always interesting to see other bikes, camping equipment, etc. We spend the evening at the campfire swapping stories with 2 guys from South Africa, 4 from North Bay, Ontario, Canada, and some young riders who are engineers with the Penske Racing Team from Charlotte, NC. This is one of the neat things about motorcycle travel. You get the opportunity to meet men and women from all over the world, who enjoy the sport. Mileage, 153

 Saturday, June 12th; Sunny skies: we pack up and continue on 276 West, as a section of the parkway is closed due to a rock slide last fall. Skies quickly become grey. We travel thru Canton, and just south of Asheville, take route 191 back onto the parkway. The parkway skirts the east side of Asheville, climbing as we go. This area has a rough road, but is in the middle of repair to be completed by the end of summer. We visit the southern Parkway Headquarters. It is full of exhibits, history, gift shop/bookstore, and short film describing what lies ahead. We pass Mount Mitchell, the highest point east of the Mississippi river, 6,684ft. It is VERY cool, and I put on another layer. We pass Crabtree Meadows and stop at Little Switzerland for lunch. This area was developed in the early 1900’s by the Switzerland Company, and so named for it’s resemblance to that country. Switzerland Inn and restaurant is in a beautiful setting offering lodging and dining. The food was excellent.

After lunch, we continue north. A light rain begins to fall and continues for the next 5 hours. We pass the Museum of North Carolina Minerals, Linville Falls, Linn Cove Viaduct, Moses Cone Memorial Park, EB Jeffress Park, Doughton Park, Blue Ridge Music Center, and arrive at Meadows of Dan for the evening. We find the Blue Ridge Motel, a mom & pop place just off the parkway, and begin to dry out. Dinner is just up the street offering eastern North Carolina BBQ. It is known for its ketchup and vinegar based sauce. Mileage, 269

 Sunday, June 13th: Sunny skies: just a mile north of our overnight stay, is Mabry Mill. We are now in an area of high plateaus and much fewer tunnels. This rural landscape is dotted with some businesses, and much farmland and livestock. Mabry Mill is a 100 year old gristmill and is said to be the most photographed spot on the parkway. A truly beautiful setting, also incorporating a wheelwright shop, sawmills, blacksmith shop, and restaurant. We pass Puckets Cabin. Orelena Pucket became a midwife in her 50’s. She helped deliver over 1,000 babies and her last delivery was the year she died at age 102!  She had 24 children of her own, but unfortunately none lived past infancy.  We pass the city of Roanoke to the east. This is the 3rd largest city in Virginia and the largest along the parkway. It has a long history associated with the railroad, and much of it has been preserved.

 We stop for lunch at Peaks of Otter visitor center. There is a hotel, lake, and a living history farm. There is much discussion on how these 3 peaks received their name, but they are distinctive and beautiful. This area is also open year around. We soon pass the lowest point of the parkway, 649ft, and cross the James River. We then begin to climb to higher elevations and cooler temps. Near Rockfish Gap, the parkway ends, and we enter Shendendoah National Park, and it’s Skyline Drive. This is a seamless transition, with the exception of the $10 entrance fee, good for 7 days. We exit Route 33 to the east, and descend into the town of Ruckersville. It is HOT, low 90’s, and the Best Western hotel never felt better. Mileage, 252

 Monday, June 14th: Sunny skies: back up to the Skyline Drive and pleasing cooler temps. While the BRP is a 45mph limit, the Skyline Drive is 35. The vegetation comes much closer to the road, and the highway a bit narrower, hence the slower speed. Even with this difference, it is a most pleasing drive, with plenty of good views and overlooks. To our left and the west, is Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, which is rich in history. During the Civil War, it was the bread basket of the Confederacy, and many battles were fought for its control. Near the city of Luray, we stop at Little Stony Man overlook. We look east and I point out the small lake and the many farms in the valley. Somewhere down there, lies my grandfathers farm. I remember going there as a child, after my uncle purchased and kept it as a working farm for many years. My father would take me there on weekends, with a lot of fun times making hay, gathering walnuts, chasing cows, chickens, pigs, and going to the spring house for cold water. Family reunions were held at the farmhouse, and they still continue at a park near the lake. We finally arrive at the end of the drive, in Front Royal, VA. Some of the wildlife we saw included wild turkey, beaver, 1 snake, and lots, and lots of deer. Mileage, 119.

 A short ride to Winchester, the town where I grew up, and a short visit with my 2 sisters, their husbands, and 3 nieces. We are treated royally, and an opportunity to do laundry and visit. We have some rain in the evening, and are glad to be off the bikes for awhile.

 Tuesday, June 15th: Cloudy skies: we head out and I show Bob the highlights of my hometown. We meet a college friend, Tad, for lunch. Even though rain is threatening, we have a long lunch outside and swap stories. Our return route south is down Route 11. This is the old wagon road and today is dotted with farms, light industry, small picturesque towns, and plenty of history. One town, New Market, is the site of the New Market Battlefield. It is well known for the VMI cadets, only 16 years old, who fought bravely for their cause during the Civil War. About 30 miles from Lexington, VA, skies open up with thunder and lighting. We take a short break, and spend the night just outside of town. Mileage, 129.

 Wednesday, June 16th. Mixed skies: we continue south to Buchanan, and head east back to the BRP. As the day moves on, we have plenty of sun. We stop again for lunch at the Meadows of Dan. About 30 miles south, we take a diversion off the parkway on Route 21 at Roaring Gap.  Riding thru the town of Sparta, Jefferson, Boone, and Blowing Rock, NC, this 50 mile loop is a nice change, as neither Bob nor I had been here before. This has to be the Christmas tree capital of the US, as I have never seen more planted in every hillside, valley, and front yard. A nice sight. We arrive late at the Switzerland Inn and restaurant, and check in to relax, walk the grounds, and a fine dinner on the patio looking into the valley. We find a lot of motorcyclists are here tonight, all taking advantage of the good riding roads nearby. We meet a pair of “bicyclists” at dinner, who routinely ride 75 miles a day. In the morning, we meet a motorcycling couple from Wisconsin, and a fellow from France. Mileage, 285.

 Thursday, June 17th: Beautiful blue skies: we head down the parkway, and within 20 minutes, near Mount Mitchell, are surrounded by fog, which I believe are actually low clouds. At 6,000 ft, it is difficult to distinguish. 15 miles an hour for about 20 minutes, and we are in the blue again. We pass Asheville, and must exit the parkway at Route 91 for the detour. This time we ahead south east, thru Brevard, then Route 64 thru Cashiers, and Highlands. Bob and I split here and say goodbye. He heads back to Blue Ridge, GA, and I head down to Dillard and Route 441 south to Duluth, GA. Mileage, 248.

 All told, we traveled 1540 miles in 7 days. It was good to be back home and out of the saddle. This trip had many fold experiences for me: It was a journey to the place I was born 58 years ago, a visit with family and friends, a journey with a good and trusted friend, and the love of the outdoors, experienced on a motorcycle. I hope to visit some of these areas along the BRP and Skyline drive many more times with my wife and others over the coming years. 

 Tom Miller

This entry was posted on Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 at 11:19 pm and is filed under Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.